Originally Posted by psyopper
I'm still waiting for the hinge mod you promised...
*wince* Ack, yeah. I need to locate the camera the original pictures were taken on and see if any of them were any good- failing that, there's my girlfriend's Mini 9 that's wanting the same treatment - I've been courting favor with a friend who's a photographer and can quite possibly get her to come over with her professional rig and set me up some photography. The mod takes about two hours in total.
Honestly, if you've the gumption to do it and are reasonably familiar with your lappy's guts, it's not that hard. For this mod you will need a small phillips screwdriver, small or needle-nose pliers, a dremel cutting tool, and some sort of cutting or abrading bit for the dremel.
If you disassemble the chassis down all the way (all bottom screws, both keyboard screws, remove keyboard, remove the 6 sub-keyboard screws AND remove both LCD bezel
and palm rest (after detaching the trackpad and power button ribbon-cables), you can disconnect the display cable from the motherboard. Then, with a little effort, you can unscrew the two remaining screws holding the hinges to the base.
Once the LCD panel is free from the base, you can unscrew it from the back of the bezel, then remove the 4 screws holding each half of the hinge assembly to the LCD panel. This part is a little finicky, if only because LCD panels are fragile. Set the LCD aside somewhere soft, preferably display side down and turn back to your left and right hinge assemblies.
Before going any further, you should play with the hinges a bit. You will notice a small raised metal section placed where it can interfere with the rotation of the innermost ("in" being towards the LCD) part of the hinge. This is your target. Take the needle-nose pliers and clamp them onto the dark nut at the end of the hinge assembly. Carefully unscrew the hinge, laying down each piece in order of disassembly, until the hinge is totally disassembled and you can get access to that small metal indentation.
Dremel the heck out of that thing. The material the hinge itself is made out of is pretty strong and can take a bit of grinding outside of the target area so don't be too paranoid about grinding through your hinge. Do note that the LCD bracketing material attached to the hinge is likely to bow over in a stiff breeze, so be careful with it.
The method I used from smoothing the bump was to smooth it a bit, reassemble, and test. Then I got sick of the whole thing and just ground it utterly flat. I actually recommend the former method, time consuming it may be.
Once your reassembled hinge is opening and closing all the way, do the other hinge in the same manner. Then reassemble your laptop, starting with the LCD panel. Be careful reattaching the various ribbon cables, as they can be tricky. Once reassembled, you should find your laptop opening approximately 30 or so degrees further.
I know that this isn't the same as having pictures indicating everything, but if you've seen this stuff before it should atleast be a start.